Sunday 17 January 2010

Landscape Photography - Tips For Capturing Images With Character

Landscape photography is a most rewarding pastime, but it can be far more challenging than some people imagine.

It sounds so easy; visit a beautiful location, shoot a few snapshots, and come home with a work of art in your camera. After dealing with the public for over 20 years, I swear most people think it really is that simple.

But really good landscape photography is much more challenging. Anyone can recognize the potential of a good subject, but turning that potential into a memorable image is another story. The task is even greater if it is a popular location. When you photograph a place that is photographed a thousand times a day, you have to find a way to create something different from the everyday snapshot.

Here are just a few tips for capturing the character of a landscape.

Tip#1. You Don't Have To Fit Everything In. Some panoramic views are so huge that the only way to fit everything into your photo is to use a very wide-angle lens. The trouble is, this reduces everything in size, so that the grandeur of your subject is diminished.

It can be more effective to concentrate your composition around one feature of the landscape; a feature other people will recognize. With this approach, you can use a larger lens to add size and prominence to the the subject. You may also capture details that could be lost with a wide-angle lens.

Tip #2. Look For A New Angle. Why is it that so many photos of the great landmarks look the same? Simply because everybody photographs them from the same lookouts. It is easy to get a good shot from a major lookout; in fact, that is probably why the lookout was built in the first place. The trouble is, it is almost impossible to get a unique shot if your photo is taken from the same angle as all the others.

If possible, search beyond the established lookouts to see if there is a more interesting angle to take your photo. This may take a little more effort, and you may have to do some bushwalking to find the best spot. I don't suggest risking your neck or trespassing, but in most cases there are alternatives to the established lookouts.

Tip #3. Use The Surroundings To Your Advantage. Anyone can take a snaphsot of a mountain range. But what about a mountain range framed through the branches of a tree in the foreground, or with a river winding away into the distance, drawing with it the eye of the viewer?

Every landscape can be photographed from a number of angles; the most obvious one is not always the best. By scouting around and looking for interesting foregrounds, you can add real character to your image and create something truly unique.

Always try to remember that you are not the first person to photograph this subject. To produce a memorable photo, you need to put in some effort to create something a little different.

Tip #4. Consider The Conditions. Capturing your subject in the best light can be a real balancing act. First you need to consider the time of day. Usually the ideal light is early in the morning and late in the afternoon, when the light is softer and more colourful. The trouble is, any photographer with experience already knows that. So how do you take your photo to the next level?

Keep a constant eye on the weather. You may be able to see something special, like a storm front, a good cloud formation, or even a good chance of a rainbow, starting to develop. If you choose your moment just right, you can be on location in time for something really special.

This is a measure of the commitment of a landscape photographer. The more effort you put in, the greater the rewards. You will spend a lot of time waiting for the right moment, but once you get that perfect image, you will see it was not time wasted. You will know you have done a good job when people start to say "I have been there - but my photos are nowhere near as good as yours!"

Andrew Goodall's top selling ebook "Photography In Plain English" is a great place to start learning the art and skills of nature photography. Find it at http://www.naturesimage.com.au along with a great collection of Andrew's landscape and wildlife photography. You can also sign up to the online newsletter for free gifts and tips on photography.

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Tuesday 5 January 2010

Landscape Photography Tips - The 5 Tips You Should Know Before Even Picking Up a Camera

As you may have realized, the modern-day photographer has managed to invent countless genres of the sophisticated art, and although each type has it's well-deserved merits, landscape photography still, and always will hold a very special place in my heart. There is just something so satisfying about getting out there and capturing some of the beauty that this amazing planet has to offer. Obviously though, like everything else as fulfilling in life, it comes with it's unique challenges and I still believe it is one of the trickiest forms of photography to perfect. This article will explore my top 5 landscape photography tips that I've learnt from the many years I have spent enjoying the art.
1. Sunset and Sunrise Make for Fantastic Shots: This has much to do with the acute angle of the sun creating beautiful shadows and textures. Not to mention some of the dazzling colors that paint the scenery at both of these times of the day.
2. Get the Foreground Right: Whilst keeping the entire shot in focus using a small aperture, easily add a sense of depth to your photo by carefully positioning an object of interest into the foreground.
3. Search Far and Wide: The best landscape photo opportunities exist where both civilization and human influence does not (with the exception of urban landscape photography). So get ready to journey away from mankind and into the wilderness to find the very best locations for your shots.
4. Use a Tripod: Although it may slow down the pace at which you work and reduce the amount of photos you end up capturing, securing your camera to a tripod will dramatically increase the quality of even your best photos. You can never expect yourself to be completely still during the exposure, especially at the mercy of the great outdoors.
5. Experiment with Filters: Experiment using various filters; you'll find that they can drastically change the look and feel of your shot. For example: Color correction filters to adjust the color temperature of the photo.
Hopefully these landscape photography tips will help to improve your photos and with any luck you'll get just as much enjoyment out of landscape photography as I have over the years.
Would you like to earn a substantial living with landscape photography? Discover the secret I've been using to earn over $60,000 per year for the past decade. Start your career in landscape photography today!
Start today, visit http://www.photo-income.info/ now!
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Saturday 2 January 2010

Photography For Beginners - Do You Understand The Rule Of Thirds?


The rise of digital cameras has turned our focus very much onto the technical aspects of photography. Unfortunately, in our ongoing rush for more advanced equipment, the artistic aspects of photography are often neglected.
If you bought a great digital camera and your photos still look like snapshots, it is not the fault of your equipment. Perhaps it is time to start looking at your subjects with a more creative eye, and think a little more about good composition. Where to start? Well, a good place to start is the Rule Of Thirds, a convention used every day by experienced photographers.
What is the Rule Of Thirds? It is a sort of guideline to help you structure your composition in a balanced way that pleases the eye. Like all rules, it is made to be broken, but we will look at that later. Experience will give you the confidence to decide when you need to apply the Rule Of Thirds, and when you can get by without it. However, before you can make that decision you need to understand the Rule Of Thirds and how it works.
Imagine the rectangular shape of any photograph. Now draw a horizontal line one third from the top of the frame, and another one third from the bottom. Then draw a vertical line, one third from the left, and another one third from the right. Your rectangle should now be divided into nine equal sections.
According to the Rule Of Thirds, the lines that divide the picture into thirds are the most effective places to position objects in your photo. So, for example, the horizon should be positioned on or near the line a third from the top or a third from the bottom of the picture. Vertical objects like trees should be placed on or near the lines a third from the left or right of the picture.
Also according to the rule, the most powerful points in the composition are the areas where the lines intersect. So, if your horizon is a third from the top of the frame, a house or tree on the horizon would be best placed a third from the left or right, at the intersecting point of the horizontal and vertical lines. If you have positioned a tree along one of the vertical lines, a bird sitting in a fork of the tree would be best positioned where it intersects with the horizontal line a third from the top.
If this seems hard to follow, sketch it out and it will start to make sense.
This may sound a little too structured for the real world, and in most cases it is. After twenty years in photography, I can tell you that nature is not so neatly packaged for our convenience. You cannot expect all the objects in your photos to fall into place according to the Rule Of Thirds. However, by using the rule as a general framework, you can begin to create structure in your photography
Why does the Rule Of Thirds work? Don't know, don't need to know. But it does work. It satisfies our sense of visual proportion, so that photos structured in this way appear balanced in the eye of the viewer. You can prove this for yourself right now, just by looking at a book of your favourite photos. When you apply the framework to each picture, you will probably find that most of them, at least loosely, fit the Rule Of Thirds.
Many photographers have a natural sense of visual balance. They take their photos according to the rule of thirds without being aware of it. They may simply shoot the picture that 'looks right' or 'feels right' to them, unconsciously applying the rule as they go. For new photographers who are struggling with composition, this simple guideline will make a world of difference. In time, and with experience, these beginners will develop their own natural 'feel' for composition.
Am I suggesting that every photo must be taken using the rule of thirds? Is any photo that falls outside these guidelines a failure? Absolutely not.
Some photos are made more effective by deliberately ignoring the rule of thirds. It is possible to focus the viewer's attention on a particular feature, by positioning it where we would not normally expect to see it. If it is done well, the impact of a photo can be enhanced by disrupting the natural sense of visual balance. I can give you a very simple example from my field of nature photography.
A sunset photo is usually all about the sky. A photographer can add impact to the sky by lowering the horizon to well below the 'normal' horizon level. The result will be a sky that really towers over the foreground and imposes more strongly on the entire picture.
There are probably millions of other examples of great photos that were taken outside the framework of the Rule Of Thirds. As I said at the start, all rules are made to be broken. That does not mean that photographers should not know the rule and practice it. There is no harm in breaking with convention. The important thing is that you do it knowingly and for a reason, to make your photos more effective. Breaking the rules is a lot more fun when you understand the rules you are breaking.
Andrew Goodall's nature photography features some great examples of the rule of thirds. Find them at http://www.naturesimage.com.au/. If you found these tips helpful, check out Andrew's top-selling ebooks, which explain the art of photography in plain english. To learn even more, sign up to Andrew's email newsletter...it's free!
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Friday 1 January 2010

Basics of Photography lighting

Understanding light is one of the very basic principles of learning to be a photographer. When you have a group of people in front of you with smiling faces ready for you to say ‘cheese’ or if you are taking a shot of a scenic area, the most important consideration is the light factor. Light controls the type of exposure and therefore the quality of the photo is dependent on the quality of the light on your subject and the amount of light that impacts on the film or digital sensor when you click. Controlling the amount of light is a good pre-occupation in the mind of a photographer keen to get a good shot. It should be one of the key considerations. The word ‘exposure’ is a very important word in the lexicon of both amateur and professional photographers and is based on the understanding of light in creating good photographs. --If there is too much light, the photo will look overly bright and over exposed. --A happy group of people will not look as vibrant if there was inadequate light when you took the picture. --Bright sunlight can create shadows under the eyes. --Poor lighting may not bring out the colors in the scene to maximum effect There are a few basics that you can apply to circumvent poor picture quality due to unfavorable light conditions: --Change the position from which you take the shot --Change the light if clicking indoors --Use the flash The use of the flash can be a boon when you operate in different light conditions. If you have an overcast sky, the flash in your camera will serve the purpose of letting some light into the image that you are trying to capture and brightening it up. The flash also works to your advantage when your subject is not too close but slightly away from you. But you have to check the ‘flash range’ of your camera in your manual. The flash works best when your subject is within a recommended range that is usually at least 4 ft and generally not more than 10 ft. Most simple cameras have an automatic flash. Slightly better models will have settings for fill-flash. The concept of fill flash revolves around filling light in areas of a picture that may turn out dark or shadowed. Fill-flash has the ability to balance the amount of light on different parts of a subject to ensure that the exposure is adequately bright. For instance, a portion of a person’s face may appear shadowed and the fill-flash setting can help iron out this problem. The angle of light is another important consideration. You have to pay attention to the direction from which light falls on your subject and there are several approaches in manipulating the angle of light to improve the visual appeal of a picture. Sideways lighting: Light from the side is used to creates depth in the picture and is considered one of the best ways to use light if you are taking a portrait photograph. Light from the top: This is a method used to brighten up most of the scene but does not work as well when you take a photograph of a person. It tends to create shadows on the lower half of the face when the lighting is high. Light from behind your subject: This strategy is sometimes used by photographers to amplify the impact of the picture. It can create a halo like effect; it can add artistic shadows and can also create a striking contrast between the subject and the background if used effectively. When you use a ‘back light’ it is recommended that the fill-flash settings on your camera are also adjusted in order to avoid shadows in your photograph. The second issue in photography is the aesthetics of the picture. Aesthetics is the creativity and attention to detail that you bring to your photograph. It is the most interesting part of photography since it is almost like a visual equivalent of composing a poem or writing a story. Aesthetics requires the use of visual skills to compose and deliver a pleasing, eye-catching and captivating image. It is a type of vision that you have for your photograph in terms of look and appeal. Aesthetics requires a good eye for detail. The following factors have to borne in mind in creating an aesthetically appealing photograph: Background --Periphery --Distance from subject --Changing the direction of your camera based on picture dimensions --Objects impinging on the picture --Avoiding too many elements Each of these factors that go into aesthetics are described and explained below- -->Background The background in a photograph requires much consideration. It influences the manner in which your subject is portrayed in the photograph. Depending on your choice of background, your subject will be shown to effect or may be overshadowed. The background also makes the difference between a boring and an interesting photograph. The colors, the type of background and the context add to the vibrancy of the photo. -->Perphery A common problem among beginners in photography is not paying attention to whether the image is being captured fully. When you view your subject through the viewfinder, you may think you have clicked a person from head to shoulder or from head to toe in a full shot. But when the actual photograph is processed, the top of your subject’s head or part of the hair may be missing! Or, if you did not center your subject when you composed the shot through your viewfinder, a part of the shoulder or hand may be lost into the edges of the photo. You need to concentrate when you view your subject through your camera before you click, in order to get the picture exactly the way you want it. -->Distance from Subject The distance from a subject is another critical aspect in getting a good picture. You want to see facial expression, not a mass of faces when you take a photograph. To do this, you have to be at a suitable close distance from your subject. On the other hand, when you click pictures of a campus, the distance that you click from can give you a wide view and take in a lot more of the scene. To take close up pictures of flowers or crystal or any decorative item, you have to move into close range and use suitable lenses to achieve the right magnification. -->Changing the Direction of Your Camera Based on the Picture Many a time you may not be able to capture the subject in it’s entirety in the conventional horizontal position in which the camera is usually held. You can easily change the direction. Hold the camera vertically and then view your subject. You will be able to capture more of a longish subject like a tall monument, a full-length picture of a child, and so on. -->Objects Impinging on the Picture At times there are certain objects in a scene that seem to almost invade into the picture. For instance, if you take a picture of a group of your friends on a street, chances are that a street sign may gain prominence in the photograph unbidden and may seem to sprout out of the head of one of your friends in the photograph. Or the light fixtures in your living room may find a place in the picture and appear in the form an unseemly blob in your photo. And the tough part is, when you take the shot you may not be aware of this because the eye is focused on the people in the picture. -->Avoiding Too Many Elements A picture cluttered with too many objects may detract from the actual subject. For instance, a wide view of a room in which your subject is sitting may create a photo in which too many objects vie for attention. If the person in the picture is your main target then narrow down and concentrate mostly on clicking the subject. While a good background adds value to a picture, too much paraphernalia could take the attention away from the main subject. Your picture may be focused and the lighting may be good but there is so much going on in the picture that it becomes aesthetically lacking and maybe even a little jarring. Besides Light and Aesthetics, the third issue in photography basics refers to ‘focusing’ the picture. Getting the right focus is the difference between a blurred image and a sharp image. If you have an auto focus camera, the camera will do the job for you. This is available in most basic models. You can also achieve focus manually in other cameras using the mechanism to adjust the focus and to lock the focus on the subject before you click. To achieve the right focus, it is important to decide on the artistic elements of the final picture. There are areas of a scene that you may want sharper and clearer. For instance, when you photograph a famous monument, you may want the building as well as the blue sky against which it is silhouetted to be crystal clear. If you are photographing a camel in a desert, you might want the camel to be clear and a slightly hazy/blurred effect of the surrounding sand. If you are taking a shot of a room containing a priceless vase, when you look through your viewfinder, you want the finer details of the intricate patterns on the vase to be clearer than other objects in its vicinity. So, it’s also a question of the portion or key part of your picture your focus is really on. This area that you identify for your focus is referred to as the ‘depth of field’. You can lock the focus on the depth of field that you choose. You can control the focus and depth of field depending on your objectives for different shots. The basics of photography are better applied when you put into perspective the capabilities of the camera model that you use or plan to purchase. Simple point and shoot cameras require minimal knowledge in operating them. They are easy to use and have the bare minimum controls. The user has to just compose and aim the shot on the subject and presses the shutter button. ‘Click’ and the job is done. The camera handles its functions automatically. For those of you who want to work with a slightly more sophisticated camera, you have the option of a Single Lens Reflex camera popularly called the SLR system. This type of camera is available in both 35mm film format as well as digital format. Digital cameras have no film but the image is captured on an image sensor and stored in photo memory. Digital cameras in general provide superior picture quality. The internal system of the SLR camera is made up of angled prisms and mirrors that actually work like a lens when you click. But you have a few things to learn about this camera system before you can achieve better light exposure, sharpness and good focus. While it is imperative that you study the instruction manual of your SLR camera system thoroughly to understand the features and functioning, given here are some of the features and a brief explanation on how these features can help you in achieving the right exposure. -->Additional Lenses for Close Up Shots An additional feature in an SLR camera that makes it far superior to a simple ‘point and shoot’ camera is the ability to use add-on lenses. When you attempt to take a close up shot of objects in nature like a flower or a butterfly, you might want a very high level of clarity. You can add power to your camera by attaching an additional lens onto your camera lens for greater magnification of your subject. These supplementary lenses are available at reasonable prices in different powers like +2, +3 and so on. You can also look for a model with an optical zoom lens that gives you the flexibility of variable focal length and a range of lens options within a single zoom lens. -->Shutter Speed The shutter in your camera lets light in during a shot and keeps light out at other times. When the shutter opens for an exposure, light is allowed to impact on the film or image sensor. If you set a slow shutter speed, more light impacts on the sensor and affects the type of exposure. When you use a faster shutter speeds your picture is sharper and clearer. There is a maximum shutter speed that is available to you in your camera system. The shutter speed is set at a fraction of a second- for instance, 1/1000th of a second. It could also be 1/2000th or even the much-preferred higher speed of 1/4000th of a second that is available in certain models. Professional use models boast of even higher shutter speed of 1/6000th or 1/8000th of a second. If you want to freeze action such as in sports, you require fast shutter speeds. There are many more features that when used effectively can add value to the impact of your photographs. Most 35mm SLR cameras have a TTL viewfinder. TTL stands for ‘through the lens’ metering system. This device has the ability to measure (on a scale) the amount of light impacting the film. Using this device is the key to control the exposure and get the right amount of light in order to capture a proper image. You can also use a tripod with your SLR camera. A tripod is your answer to achieving the right exposure in a close up shot and in low light conditions. It holds the camera steady, helps in focusing and ensures a sharper picture even when shutter speed is slow. The guidelines discussed here on the basics of photography and the additional features of the SLR system, will not only get you started but also help you avoid the common mistakes that many budding photographers make. Study your manual thoroughly for insights and ideas. Learning photography requires patience and the ability to constantly experiment and teach yourself through a process of trial and error.
The author, Chris Haslego, is founder of http://www.cameramanualstore.com, the internet's foremost source of camera manuals. With over 4000+ camera manuals available from all major manufacturers.
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Photography Basics - Understanding Aperture and F Stops

Shooting with a camera and adjusting the settings manually can be an intimidating task to the new photographer. Most veteran photographers will no doubt remember the first roll of film they ruined by reading the light wrong or the photos they missed by having a closed lens cap. A photographer's job is to be the conductor of a symphony of moving parts, influencing each element to make sure the end result is more than just the sum of the parts.
Without understanding each element of photography, it's impossible to know how they relate as a whole. So let's begin our trip into the inner-workings of photographs with one of the most unfamiliar topics: Aperture.
What is Aperture?
Aperture is simply what controls the amount of light exposed on the film or your digital camera's sensor. It can be opened and closed using the F-Stop on your camera, which is usually a ring located around the lens in between the focus ring and the body of the camera. If you've ever looked into someone's eye as light was shone into it and watched the pupil get smaller, this is how the aperture works too.
Most cameras have an f stop range of 1.7/2.0 to 22 with the range of values usually increasing with the quality and cost of the camera. You can see your camera's range by looking at the numbers around your lens. Lower F-Stops are more open and expose the film to more light, while high F-Stops close the aperture and shut the light out.
How Aperture Can Impact Images
Using your F-Stop to purposefully manipulate the camera's aperture will allow you to change the depth of field in your photographs. If you're unfamiliar with the term "depth of field," it describes how much of your photograph is blurry, and how much is sharp. Aperture directly affects the amount of time a frame is exposed. And, the more time the film has to absorb light, the more clarity and depth will come through the final image.
For instance, if you were to take a photograph of a line of dominoes from one end using a low F-Stop number (an open aperture), you would probably see one or two dominoes clearly and the background ones as blurry. Open apertures create a shallow depth of field. If you were to take the same photo with a high F Stop (a closed aperture), you would see a lot more dominoes down the line.
Fun Experiments with Aperture
Playing with the aperture on your camera can be great fun once you have a bearing on what it does. Here's a couple of ideas to try the next time you're out shooting and you want to test it out:
Take every photograph twice - once at a high F-Stop, and once at a low F-Stop.
Challenge yourself to take an entire roll at one F Stop and then switch it up.
Put your camera on full manual and adjust the F-Stop on the fly to adjust for light
Don't forget to adjust the shutter speed of your camera to allow for more or less light (faster speeds for more light, slower speeds for less), or you may end up with overexposed or underexposed images. Many digital cameras have a fantastic option called "aperture priority mode" which lets you choose an F Stop and will then adjust the shutter speed automatically. It's worth noting that the best types of lighting for experimenting with aperture are cloudy or overcast days. When faced with low or bright light, your options for F Stop values will become limited.
Of course, the best way to improve your images is to never stop taking pictures. Now it's time to get out there and have fun taking pictures!
Autumn Lockwood is a writer for Your Picture Frames and loves photography. Your Picture Frames makes it easy for you to find just the perfect frame for your photo or artwork. Shop online and see our selection of all kinds of frames like gold and silver photo frames or call us at 1-800-780-0699.
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Sunday 27 December 2009

Photography Lenses - What You Need to Know

Photographic Lenses - A perspective from an avid shutterbug

Have you ever wondered why photographs turn out different than what you saw through the viewfinder? Why is my photography blurry or out of focus? How do I capture more of the subject area in the photo? How can I get closer to the subject? Why is the photograph darker than suspected? I have had these questions over the years and have studied photography lenses so that I can select the most appropriate camera and camera lens for my subjects.

Today, with the most wonderful world of photography , and the technology at hand, it is much easier to shoot those prize photos even for the weekend shutterbug. But, if you understand even a few basics your photographs can turn out much better than you anticipated. It has become really easy for anyone to pick up a point and shoot fixed lens digital camera and take a great photo. With the influx of many high end, high megapixel cameras available for under $200.00, anybody can put memories in their pocket.

I started out shooting photography and using several types of photography lenses in the early 1980's. My uncle introduced me to Pentax SLR equipment as he had a wholesale representative contact in Denver. I was able to purchase thousands of dollars worth of equipment for pennies on the dollar. And, so began the journey with my Pentax LX professional line of equipment. My photography lens arsenal was made up of many types such as wide angle, zoom, telephoto, macro, and standard camera lenses . I had a motor drive, high end camera flash, tripods, camera lens filters, lens hoods and more to get me started. As an athlete my first love was shooting sports which involved fast film, fast lenses, and a zoom lens. I soon fell into shooting landscapes, wildlife, and weddings. And, let me say, all for free. I loved taking pictures and giving them away to people who did not understand how to capture those prize memorable moments behind the lens.

So, what makes up the chemistry of photography lenses? How do they work and when should I use one over the other? Today it is so easy to get that all automatic digital SLR camera and lens and hope that the subject turns out as you thought it should. I think these automatic cameras are great. However, if you understand how to utilize other photography lenses in a manual mode you can still produce beautiful photographs. I actually have a Nikon D70 digital SLR camera today in addition to my Pentax LX and Nikon Coolpix pocket digital.

Photography Lenses Explained

Camera Lens Types:


Wide Angle The wide angle camera lens enables the photographer to shoot a photograph when you wish to encompass more of the subject scene than would be possible with a standard lens such as a 50mm focal length. Wide angle camera lenses are typically a shorter focal length under 50mm and allow the photographer to change the perspective of the scene. A moderate focal length is about 24mm to 35mm that have apertures of F/2 or F/2.8 which allows more light in. There are also extreme wide angle lenses , called fisheyes, that can produce almost a 180 degree photo. These photographic camera lenses can be fun however, make sure you understand that the lens may produce a rounded image and the depth of field can be limited in low lighting conditions.
Standard Standard lenses are typically the 50mm lenses. These are a fixed focal length and are the lens of choice on most SLR cameras . Everyone should have this camera lens . It typically will be used the most for everyday common photography. The 50mm standard lens is about what the human eye can see in the field of vision. It also produces the most relative size of the subjects and objects in the photograph. This camera lens can be one of the fastest lenses in your camera bag. It can be purchased with a low aperture of F/1.4 which will allow for very low lighting photographic opportunities.
Zoom The zoom lens is my favorite lens. This camera lens gives the photographer so many options especially if you are not carrying two camera bodies with you. The zoom camera lens is not limited to one focal length but has movable elements in the lens that allow for multiple ranges. Zoom photographic lenses are available in many sizes but the typical lengths give you anywhere from 35mm - 70mm and 80mm - 200mm. I recommend these two lengths for the weekend hobbyist so that a full range from 35mm - 200mm can be achieved. These lenses can be expensive especially if the aperture is under F/4.0. They are typically not used in low lighting conditions or with motion photography unless you are shooting in daylight with sunny conditions. For most photography hobbyists, the 80mm - 200mm works great for sideline photographs and has enough focal length to capture images such as wildlife from a distance.
Telephoto Telephoto camera lenses have a focal length that is longer than a normal 50mm lens. The longer the length of the telephoto camera lens the more magnification you can get and the closer you can draw near to your subject. These camera lenses differ from the zoom in that they are fixed and cannot provide the photographer a range of lengths. Most telephotos are used where the subject is static and situations where you are restricted to keeping your distance. They usually come with a smaller aperture somewhere around F/4.0. Careful selection and use must be made when using these lenses as they can be heavier and blur photographs with the slightest movement. I would recommend a tripod or monopod for use with lenses longer than 200mm. They are absolutely great for sports and wildlife photography. I have used anywhere from 100mm to a 500mm mirror telephoto. The 500mm mirror lens was really nice when shooting at an air show.
Specialty There a couple of specialty camera lenses that I'll talk about. The first photographic lens that is a must for close- up photography is the macro lens. This lens can come in a few focal lengths that are typically less than 100mm. The macro camera lens enables the photographer the ability to shoot subjects extremely close-up such as flowers, insects, and commercial products. These camera lenses are really fun and can produce beautiful images that fill the frame with wonderful color and detail. I have done a lot of macro photography and recommend that a tripod be used when shooting these subjects so that blurring is limited. These lenses can also have lower apertures so that long exposure under low lighting can be accomplished. The other type of specialty lens is the perspective control lenses that will take close up photographs and keep the subject sharp in focus and prevent the depth of field from distorting the subject. I have not used these types of lenses so I cannot give you a real life example. However, for most non-professional photographers this lens may not be worth the investment. Finally, I will mention the 2x converter. This photography lens cannot stand alone but augment another lens by boosting the focal length by two times it's standard length. You simply add it between the camera and your lens of choice and the optical mirrors magnify the image by two. I use this often outdoors shooting sports on sunny days where I have a bunch of light. This will boost my 300mm zoom to 600mm. And, I can get really close to my subjects from the sidelines.

Photography lenses today provides the shutterbug an array of opportunities for photographic design. Depending on the type of photographer you are, it will determine the types of camera lenses you put into your camera bag. I would suggest that everyone has at least a mid-range zoom. If it is the only lens in the your budget at time of purchase, you can add other camera lenses later. The 35mm - 70mm would be my recommendation. If you are going to shoot athletics you will most likely be on the sidelines or in the bleachers and will need up to a 300mm telephoto or zoom. Depending on your budget I would suggest a lower aperture but nothing more than F/4.0.

Have fun and remember that you can take oodles of pictures today and test your photographs much easier with digital SLR photography . If you don't like your results, delete them. Then, go out and take more pictures!

To your photographic success.

Mark Brozovich is an avid photographer from Denver Colorado. He specializes in sports, landscape, portrait and wedding photography as a hobby. He got started shooting photographs with manual SLR cameras in 1980. His understanding of photography lenses grew as he became a serious photographer and now primarily uses a Nikon D70 Digital SLR camera for most of his photographic needs. Today, Mark helps people understand their cameras and photography lenses in person, in the field, and on his photography lenses web blog. Hopefully this information has helped you with some basic understanding of camera lenses and how they are used. For more information about photography lenses, cameras, and photography education, visit our site at http://photographylensesblog.com

Mark Brozovich

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Saturday 26 December 2009

Choosing What Type of Camera to Buy



Everybody wants a digital camera these days. They are cheaper than ever and since you just need to buy a memory card one instead of buying film and then paying for photo processing many times, the total cost of taking pictures is probably lower than it ever has been.

It can be a challenge to navigate the digital camera landscape since so many different models in so many different styles are available. In general, cameras fall into three groups: Compact cameras, semi-compact cameras, and Digital SLR cameras.

Compact cameras are the smallest and most portable style of cameras. Usually they are a small rectangle like a mobile phone. In most cases, the lens extends out when the camera is turned on and disappears again when the camera is turned off. These cameras are best for tossing into a pocket or purse. Years ago, it was necessary to make a trade-off between compact size and image quality but these days even the smallest cameras can take beautiful photos. They have some degree of customization, but it can be challenging to use since the camera is so small with so few buttons.

A semi-compact digital camera is larger than a compact camera. They may fit in a pocket, but not as unnoticeably as smaller cameras. typically the lens does not fit all the way inside the camera. They offer a higher degree of photo customization, but do not have interchangeable lenses.

Digital SLR cameras are the most expensive and most advanced style of cameras. SLR means Single Lens Reflex which means that a mirror is used to look through the lens to compose the picture. This mirror momentarily moves out of the way in order to take a photo. The biggest distinction of these cameras is that you can replace the lenses. Some lenses are meant for wide-angle or long-distance photography, while others are higher quality lenses. For all but the most dedicated photographers, it's most convenient to find a single lens that meets most of your needs so that you do not need to be constantly changing lenses while you are missing the action.

Jim Tonkins writes about a hard drive external on http://harddriveexternal.net.

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Tuesday 22 December 2009

Garry Marshall Types of Photography

In this post we will explore different types of photography. There are several different directions one can go in with photography. You can even specialize in one or more of them if you like. Some types of photography will be discussed below.

There has been color film for many years for cameras. Most of the time people opt for a color photograph to be taken of themselves at their weddings, for portraits or for pictures that they take for their own pleasure. But, black and white photos also have their place in photography.

Black and white photographs can appear just as beautiful as if the pictures were taken in color. Black and white film creates shadows and shades that imply different colors, but look more mysterious in black and white. The lighting in the picture can also stand out more in a black and white photo with every subtle difference in lighting noticeable. Black and white film has its place in photography and will continue to remain there.

Another type of photography would be fashion photography. This type of photography has been in existence for a long time. With this type you will have the opportunity to take pictures in both color and black and white. With this type of photography you will have a chance to take pictures of people as well as objects such as shoes, clothes, accessories, etc. To become a fashion photographer you will be a professional photographer, so you will need to learn as much as you can to create a portfolio and then a reputation for being a successful photographer. It may be something to aspire to.

An interesting type of photography is glamour photography. Black and white film works very well with this type of photography. It is meant to be alluring and sexy, not pornographic. The model can be nude, but delicate body parts are hidden. The model can also be fully clothed in an outfit that is meant to be sexy. This type of photography emphasizes a romantic feel rather than the type of picture that you will find in a magazine such as Playboy, so if you are interested in this type of photography you will not be creating a pornographic scene. This might be more comfortable for you if you like to take erotic pictures, but do not want to be too outrageous.

The subjects that you choose to specialize in can be interesting and fun such as with fashion and glamour photography. Explore what would be best for you.

To read more great advice about becoming a photographer read You Can Become A Photographer

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